What We Fix
Comprehensive mobile RV repair brought straight to your campsite, driveway, or storage facility — across all of Northern Nevada.
Leaks, pipe repairs, pump issues, fresh/grey/black tank systems — we handle all RV plumbing.
Shore power issues, 12V systems, converter/inverter faults, lighting, and full electrical troubleshooting.
Gas and electric water heater repair, element replacement, anode rods, and bypass valve service.
Battery testing, replacement, charging system diagnosis — 12V, AGM, lithium, and house battery banks.
Full roof inspections, sealant refresh, vent checks, and leak prevention to protect your investment.
Slide-out lubrication, hitch inspection, propane system checks, pre-trip checks, and more.
Complete protection from Nevada's freezing winters. We blow out lines and protect your entire plumbing system.
Restore reliable fresh water pressure. We diagnose and replace faulty, loud, or leaking water pumps.
Keep your rig looking showroom fresh. Professional cleaning inside and out, from roof to wheels.
Before You Call
Straight answers to the questions RV owners ask before picking up the phone.
If you spot water pooling under the rig, a damp cabinet, or low water pressure that won't hold, you've most likely got a leak. I'll trace it from the pump and lines to the fittings and tanks right at your spot, so there's no need to haul it anywhere.
Most plumbing fixes land between $150 and $450, depending on whether it's a simple fitting swap or a line that has to be fished through a wall. I'll give you a straight quote before I turn a wrench, and the price reflects parts and labor together.
Almost every plumbing repair I handle gets done right where you're parked — driveway, campsite, or storage lot. The only time a shop makes sense is for major tank replacement, and even then I'll tell you upfront.
A standard leak or pump fix runs about one to two hours on-site. Bigger jobs like re-running a water line can take half a day, but I'll let you know the timeline as soon as I see it.
Dead outlets, flickering lights, breakers that keep tripping, or a battery that won't charge are the usual red flags. I bring my meters to you and trace whether it's shore power, the converter, or a 12V issue.
Diagnostics typically run $100-$200, with most repairs landing between $150 and $600 depending on the part. Complex inverter or converter swaps cost more, and I'll quote the full job before any work starts.
Yes — the vast majority of electrical troubleshooting and repairs happen on-site at your rig. I carry the meters and common parts to handle shore power, 12V, lighting, and converter issues right there.
A full diagnostic usually takes one to two hours, then the repair itself depends on what we find. Simple fixes wrap up the same visit; a converter or inverter replacement may take a few hours.
It's usually a failed heating element, a bad igniter, or a tripped ECO switch if it's gas. I'll test the element, thermostat, and igniter on-site and tell you exactly what's wrong before replacing anything.
Most water heater repairs run $150 to $400, with element or igniter swaps on the lower end. If the whole unit needs replacing, that's a bigger job and I'll walk you through the options and cost.
Absolutely — gas and electric water heater repairs are done at your location, no shop visit needed. I carry common elements, igniters, and anode rods so most fixes happen in one trip.
A typical element or igniter replacement takes about an hour to an hour and a half on-site. A full unit swap can take two to three hours, plus time to test for leaks.
If your house batteries won't hold a charge overnight, read low on a meter, or bulge and smell, they're likely done. I load-test them on-site to confirm whether it's the battery or the charging system causing the problem.
Testing and terminal service runs around $100-$150, while a full replacement depends on the battery type — lead-acid is cheaper, lithium runs higher. I'll quote the battery and install together so there are no surprises.
Yes, I swap and test batteries right at your rig, whether it's a single 12V or a full house bank. I also check the converter and solar charge controller to make sure the new batteries actually get charged.
A straightforward single-battery swap takes about 30 to 45 minutes. A full house bank replacement with wiring cleanup can take a couple of hours, depending on access.
I recommend a roof inspection at least once a year, plus before any long trip or after a hard Northern Nevada winter. Catching cracked sealant early is the difference between a $50 fix and thousands in water damage.
A full inspection runs about $100-$150, and if we find soft spots or failed sealant, resealing typically adds $150-$400 depending on how much area needs it. I'll show you exactly what I find up on the roof.
Yes — I bring the ladders and sealants and do the whole inspection and reseal on-site at your driveway or storage spot. The only thing I need is safe access to park alongside the rig.
An inspection alone takes about 45 minutes to an hour. If sealant needs refreshing, plan on two to four hours depending on how many vents, seams, and skylights need attention.
It covers slide-out lubrication, hitch and coupling checks, propane leak testing, awning and leveling jack service, and pre-trip safety inspections. Think of it as the tune-up that keeps small issues from becoming big ones.
A standard maintenance visit runs $150 to $350 depending on how many systems we go through. I bundle it into one trip so you're not paying multiple call-out fees.
That's the whole point — I bring the tools and lubricants to your rig and do the full checklist right where it sits. No need to drive a motorhome or tow a trailer anywhere.
Most maintenance visits take two to three hours on-site, depending on how many slides, jacks, and systems we service. I'll give you a realistic timeframe when I see the rig.
We handle a wide range of RV problems beyond this list. If you're not sure, give David a call — free consultation, no pressure.